Unimatic, the Italian microbrand known for its affordable and functional tool watches, has once again teamed up with industry heavyweights to create a timepiece that pushes the boundaries of adventure-ready design. This time, Unimatic has collaborated with The Armoury, a men's fashion institution, and Nigel Cabourn, a legendary menswear designer, to craft a watch that defies expectations and prioritizes functionality over fashion.
The Modello Cinque: A Spiritual Sequel
The Modello Cinque ref. UT5-TANC is a spiritual successor to Unimatic's original collaboration with Cabourn in 2019, the Modello Due U2-NC. While the previous model drew inspiration from the historic Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition, the new watch takes a broader approach, embodying the philosophy of exploration and utility.
A Rugged and Wearable Design
What sets the Modello Cinque apart is its compact and highly wearable case design. Measuring just 36mm across, 43.7mm long, and 11.6mm thick, excluding the double-domed sapphire crystal, this watch is a perfect blend of size and functionality. The monobloc bezel eliminates potential weak points, and the screw-down crown and oversized 8mm crown ensure a secure and reliable seal, allowing for an impressive 300m water resistance rating, akin to a dive watch.
Shock Absorption and Military-Grade Testing
One of the standout features of this timepiece is its shock absorption capabilities. The case is equipped with Unimatic's proprietary TPU anti-shock system, an Italian-made innovation that provides 360-degree protection around the movement. This system meets the rigorous MIL-STD-810H military testing standards, ensuring the watch can withstand the toughest conditions.
A Quartz Movement with a Twist
Unimatic and its collaborators opted for a quartz movement, specifically the Seiko Caliber VH31A, known for its high-beat frequency and smooth-sweeping seconds hand. This movement mimics the look and feel of a 4Hz mechanical movement, offering a unique blend of reliability and visual appeal. The choice of quartz over mechanical adds to the watch's ruggedness and ease of use.
Cerakote Finish: A Unique Touch
The case of the Modello Cinque features a stonewashed finish achieved through a Cerakote coating. Cerakote, a ceramic-based coating, enhances the steel's resistance to scratches and corrosion, making it a rare and practical choice in the watch industry. This finish, often seen on EDC knives and firearms, adds a distinctive and rugged aesthetic to the timepiece.
Legibility and Design Details
The navy blue dial prioritizes legibility with long hash markings for the minute track and printed Arabic numeral indices, reminiscent of field watches. Unimatic's signature ladder-style handset and a reverse lollipop second hand with an orange tip add to the overall design. The hands and indices are treated with Super-LumiNova GL Old Radium lume, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions. Nigel Cabourn's logo is prominently displayed in orange under 12:00, while Unimatic's logo and specifications are etched above 6:00.
Strap and Caseback: Attention to Detail
The two-piece nylon strap with nylon keepers and quick-release spring bars provides a secure and comfortable fit. The stainless steel pin buckle matches the stonewashed Cerakote finish of the case. The solid caseback features a unique razzle-dazzle pattern inspired by WWII-era battleship camouflage, a subtle nod to the watch's rugged and adventurous spirit. The Armoury's and Cabourn's logos are also engraved on the caseback, adding a personal touch to the collaboration.
Availability and Pricing
The Unimatic Modello Cinque ref. UT5-TANC is available in two colorways, each limited to just 150 pieces. Reference "A" features an OD green case with a navy blue strap, while Ref. "B" reverses the color scheme. Priced at $920 from Unimatic, $950 from The Armoury, or ¥165,000 (~$1,042) from Cabourn's online store, this watch offers exceptional value for its capabilities and design.
Conclusion: A Watch for the Adventurous Spirit
Unimatic's latest collaboration showcases its expertise in creating affordable and rugged tool watches. The Modello Cinque is a testament to the brand's commitment to functionality and exploration. With its compact size, military-grade shock resistance, and diver-spec water resistance, this watch is an ideal companion for those seeking adventure. The unique Cerakote finish and attention to detail make it a stand-out piece in the world of timekeeping. Personally, I find it fascinating how Unimatic continues to push the boundaries of design while maintaining an affordable price point, offering a unique and capable timepiece to a wider audience.
